📋 Hem Allowance Reference Chart
A quick reference for commonly recommended hem allowances by garment type. Adjust for fabric weight and personal preference.
Where the allowance sits on the piece
Every figure is the total depth added below the finished hemline, not the depth you see once it is folded:
cut length = finished length + hem allowance + seam allowance at the topA skirt finishing 22 in long with a 2 in hem is cut 24 in, plus 5/8 in for the waist seam - 24.625 in in all. Turn that 2 in up twice at 1 in and the visible hem is 1 in deep; turn 1/2 in under and press the rest up and it is 1.5 in.
Choosing from the chart
- Flare decides more than fabric does. A straight skirt takes 1.5 to 2.5 in because the turned-up edge is nearly as wide as the garment. A circle skirt gets 0.25 to 0.5 in rolled: on a curve, the outer edge is far longer than the line it meets, so any depth ripples.
- Weight sets the lower end. Lightweight tops and knits sit at 0.5 to 1 in; a deep hem on soft fabric drags the hemline out of shape. Curtains take 2 to 4 in because that weight is wanted.
- Check the pattern first. Most commercial patterns include the hem allowance in the cutting line and name the depth in the instructions. Adding the chart figure on top makes the garment too long.
Frequently asked questions
How deep should a trouser hem be?
1.5 to 2 in on tailored trousers, 1 to 1.5 in on jeans, where heavier denim and topstitching suit a shallower turn. Both leave enough to let the leg down later.
Is hem allowance included in the seam allowance?
No, they are separate. Seam allowance runs along the joins at 5/8 in on most commercial patterns; hem allowance is the extra length below the hemline, and each is added independently.
Why does a circle skirt need such a narrow hem?
The hem edge is on a wider circle than the fold line it turns up to, so a deep hem has excess that will not lie flat. A rolled or bias-faced hem keeps that difference small enough to absorb.