📏 Needle Size Reference Chart
A general reference for matching fabric weight to the machine embroidery needle size and type typically used.
What the two numbers mean
Every size in the chart is written twice: the metric NM number first, then the US equivalent. The metric one is literal — it is the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimetre.
NM = blade diameter (mm) × 100
65/9 = 0.65 mm 75/11 = 0.75 mm 90/14 = 0.90 mmThe US column is convention rather than arithmetic, which is why the pairs have to be memorised: 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16. The working rule is to use the smallest needle that will carry your thread through the fabric without shredding it. Standard 40 wt rayon or polyester is happy on a 75/11, which is why that size appears in three rows.
Point shape matters as much as size
- Embroidery points have a light ball, an enlarged eye and a deeper scarf, all to stop 1,000 needle penetrations a minute abrading the thread.
- Ballpoint pushes between the loops of a knit instead of cutting them. A sharp needle on jersey severs yarns and the holes grow with every wash.
- Metallic and topstitch needles pair a 90/14 blade with a much longer eye, because metallic thread is a foil wrapped on a core and cannot take a tight bend.
- Leather wedge points cut a small slit. Never use one on woven fabric — the cut does not close, and a line of them perforates the cloth.
Frequently asked questions
What does 75/11 mean on an embroidery needle?
A blade 0.75 mm across. 75 is the metric NM size, 11 the US number for the same needle; both appear on the packet.
What needle size do I use for embroidering t-shirts?
A 75/11 ballpoint embroidery needle. The rounded tip parts the knit rather than cutting it, which keeps the holes from opening up in the wash.
Why does my metallic thread keep breaking?
Usually the eye is too small. Move to a 90/14 metallic or topstitch needle, slow the machine to around 400–600 stitches per minute, and let the thread feed from a stand rather than a horizontal pin.